Charles Warlow has circumnavigated the UK twice and has sailed around Ireland and to the Faroes. He shares his advice for sailors planning on sailing around the UK
The first person to both sail around the UK (albeit using the Forth and Clyde Canal) and write a book about it was the slightly deranged Lieutenant E Middleton, writes Charles Warlow.
He was a classing winger, pompous with it, but brave (verging on the foodhardy) to manage single-handed cruising back in 1869.
The Cruise of the Kate is a classic, but heavy-going. Since then hundreds must have done this trip, some racing, but most taking their time to explore our coastline and contemplate.
A few have written about their exploits, and the best of these authors have had something interesting to say about themselves, like Libby Purves in One Summer’s Grace (1989), and Jonathan Raban in Coasting: A Private Voyage (1987).
I have done the trip twice – in each direction – and as well as suggesting you read as many books as possible by others who have also sailed around Britain, these are my own 12 top tips.
1. Do not – repeat, not – go through the Caledonian Canal, because if you do you will miss probably the best part of the trip, most of the west coast of Scotland and the Hebrides, as well as all of Orkney and Shetland.
Scottish-based sailors have an excuse because they may well know these places already, but for those in the south, taking the canal would be a shame.
Of course, it does save some time, but not a lot – maybe a week, depending on how much dawdling you do round north-west Scotland.
Furthermore, even though the canal is impressive, it is not all that interesting: it takes the best part of three days to get through, and it is not cheap.
If you are bothered by sailing through the Pentland Firth, then that is a good excuse to take in at least some of Orkney by going through Scapa Flow, with all its naval history, and the delights of Stromness.
Ideally, take in Shetland too, and go around Muckle Flugga.
2. Avoid the South Coast during the Summer holidays when the unavoidable marinas are more expensive: it is very crowded, and you would miss the wonders of near-constant daylight in the far north.
Besides, the South Coast out of season is a complete delight – stress-free, no rafting up.
This tip may well determine which way round you go.
From the Solent head off clockwise, but from the Clyde go anticlockwise (assuming a start in April or May).
Some have decided which way to go in order to avoid the midges in the Scottish summer, but this is irrational: midges are not maritime creatures, they do not go to sea although they do inhabit the Caledonian Canal).
All other things being equal, I prefer anticlockwise, partly to avoid what may be a beat down the English Channel against the prevailing wind.
Also, I would prefer, if I had to, to tack backwards and forwards down the Irish Sea, visiting Ireland, Wales and the Isle of Man, rather than down the North Sea.
In any event, whichever way you go, working the tides is more important than trying to predict weeks in advance which way the wind is going to blow.
3. Do not rush it. After all, this might be your last chance to see much of our coastline.
You could do the 2,000+ miles in a couple of months, but you would miss so much.
Six months would be ideal – maybe even longer if, say, you are based on the South Coast, want to see more of Scotland, and so opt to leave the boat there for the winter.
All easier said than done if you are still working, unless you can get paid or unpaid time off (work for John Lewis and they give you six months’ paid leave once you have been with them for 25 years!).
Or you could perhaps try to do the trip over a succession of weekends and holidays.
Many are retired, like I was, and the message here is to get on with it before you (and, more importantly, your likely crew) are too decrepit.
Look at it as a grown-up ‘gap year’, before decline and demise.
4. Be flexible. Of course plan ahead, months ahead, but be prepared to make relatively minor adjustments as you go, depending on the current weather and as importantly the forecast, home or work commitments, time available, and crew abilities and behaviour.
Decide ahead of time where you want to stop, having collected as many articles as possible from yachting magazines and filed them over the years.
You must constantly have a Plan B in your head, and even a C and D.
It’s easy enough on the west coast of Scotland where there are places to flee to within a few hours at most (provided you do not insist on a pontoon or a mooring), but not so easy around England and Wales.
Therefore, you might have to sit it out in Lowestoft before setting off across the Wash, or in the Scilly Isles before heading for Wales.
5. Don’t go alone. Many have, and I admire them for it, but I think it is more fun and certainly less stressful to take along friends and relatives, probably changing them every two weeks or so (shorter legs are more difficult to orchestrate).
Of course, you have to pick any crew carefully, individually and in combination, and work out what they want to get out of their bit of the cruise, and where you are going to change them over.
This last is easy in England and Wales given the network of trains and buses, and more difficult but still perfectly possible in Scotland.
This changeover also provides a day or two of solitude for the skipper who can clean up the boat (no crew is good enough at this task), sort out minor repairs and have some peace and quiet without worrying about crew psychology and morale.
If possible, it is best not to launch a new crew into a long sail on their first day: again, easier said than done if you are in Weymouth and wanting to cross Lyme Bay, or in Stromness heading for Loch Eriboll or Tongue.
6. Don’t think you have to sail in the dark, because – slightly surprisingly – it is perfectly possible to do the whole trip in day-sails, with the possible exception of getting across the Wash without diverting to Grimsby or Wells-next-the-Sea, and across the Bristol Channel if the wind direction is no good for Padstow and Lundy and you don’t want to go further east.
Even getting to Orkney and Shetland can be done in daylight, particularly in midsummer.
In fact, I prefer long half-day sails, with an early start if the tide is right, then settling somewhere in the afternoon with time to look around and have a drink in the local pub.
7. Pick the right boat for you. Unless your own boat is too small, or unless you can borrow a boat, there is no choice here – you go in your own boat.
If your boat is too big you won’t get into remote Scottish anchorages, but you may not have time for such delights anyway.
Besides, you may not be able to sail alone if you want to.
If your boat is too small, you will get delayed by the sort of weather a bigger boat could cope with, and you won’t have much room for crew.
Personally, I think 9-11m (30-36ft) works best.
Whatever else, invest in a tiller pilot if your batteries are up to it; or, better still, windvane self-steering. It’s so much more relaxed than gripping the tiller or wheel for hours on end.
8. Keep in touch. It is so easy in these days of the internet and mobile phones.
The latter have revolutionised passage planning, because not only can you book restaurants for the evening, but you can also talk to marinas and harbour masters to reserve a berth (and know ahead of time which number it is, and which side) and get local advice without having to be within VHF range.
Also, mobile phones make liaising with arriving crew and getting instant weather forecasts so easy, as well as pondering over TripAdvisor – and phoning home
9. Charts and sailing directions are of course essential, but can be expensive.
I couldn’t cope without at least some paper charts even though, like everyone else, I rely on a chartplotter and carry a battery-operated spare.
The solution is to try borrowing charts from friends, or sailing clubs.
The same goes for Sailing Directions, although I think you can often get away with Reeds Almanac with its harbour plans and contact details (except in Scotland, where small anchorages are not covered).
And besides, Reeds is likely to be much more up-to-date than Sailing Directions (unless you can download amendments). Definitely take it with you anyway.
10. Factor in meeting friends and family. Keeping in touch with friends and even family can be a challenge at the best of times, so using a round-UK trip to visit them is definitely worth a thought.
After all, nowhere is far from the sea. Onboard lunch or dinner parties are a delight, or a trip to a local restaurant or even a theatre.
Also, longer family holidays can be planned as part of the cruise.
11. Go home occasionally to cut the grass, and most importantly to remind the family of your continuing existence.
These home trips should be factored into the overall plan, even if they are only for a weekend, and they can also be done spontaneously if the weather is going to be terrible for a few days and you want some home comforts.
12. Keep a record, which might be a diary, log, a blog or photographs- -not on a phone, but in a more resilient and durable book or album, with notes.
It’s a bit of an effort at the time, but absolutely worth it as the years go by and you (and your descendants) can relive what for many really is a trip of a lifetime.
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