Whether you’re getting into or out of a tight berth, getting alongside against a strong breeze or getting off a berth when being pinned on, a well-placed spring will give you all the power and control you need, as David Rainsbury demonstrates

Before we look into the practicalities of springing off and on, this is the definition of a spring, writes David Rainsbury.

A spring is a line running diagonally between the vessel and the berth.

Its function is to prevent fore and aft movement of the vessel while the breast lines keep her parallel to her berth.

A bow spring is attached to the forward end of the vessel and runs aft to the shore, while a stern spring runs from the stern of the vessel forwards to the shore.

Springing off

Even in calm conditions, it can be difficult to get a yacht away from an alongside berth.

The problem arises because she pivots about her centre when the helm is applied.

As well as the bow moving away from the quay, the stern pushes in towards it, and once the quarter hits the quay the turn stops, leaving the yacht bumping along the quay for some distance before she can get clear.

In most cases, there is little room ahead or astern anyway for such an undignified manoeuvre.

To get away with all the gelcoat intact one end of the yacht needs to be pointed well out into clear water before she moves off.

Preparation for springing off

Remember the six Ps – Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Poor Performance.

When preparing to depart, arrange your breast lines so that they can be slipped from on board.

With one end of the line made fast to a cleat aboard, loop the line around the cleat or bollard ashore and then back aboard, securing it so that it can be released quickly when it’s time to go.

Check your fenders. Springing off will bring one end of your yacht into contact with the berth.

If you have enough crew, a roving fender can be invaluable. If not, take care when positioning your fenders to protect that point of contact.

The stern spring

To move the bow out you need to rig a stern spring. Take a line from the yacht through a fairlead right on the quarter, as far aft as possible.

Take the shoreward end of the line well forward, at least past midships.

With the spring in place, you can now let go of all the other dock lines and engage astern propulsion.

If the forward breast line is rigged as a slip it can be left in place and used with the spring and the reversed engine to hold the yacht in place until you are ready to go.

Once the forward breast line is released the spring will prevent the yacht from moving astern and the bow will begin to swing out.

Turn the helm towards the quay, allowing the reverse flow of water to push the rudder shorewards and assist in getting the bow out.

Once the bow is clear, centre the helm, engage forward and gently motor out.

Make sure you give time for the crew to pull the spring aboard. Don’t rush it. A pause in neutral will reduce the risk of trapped fingers or a line round the propeller.

Note: While convenient, this is not a powerful method of getting away from a berth and may not work well with some hull shapes.

A flat pad fender used at the quarter may help instead of a fat round one.

A stern spring almost certainly won’t get you away if you are pinned on to the berth by a fresh breeze.

If this is the case you need to come out backwards.

Using a stern spring: step-by-step

A yacht leaving a pontoon

1. Stern spring and bow line ready to slip, engine in reverse gear, helm away from the berth.

 

A yacht leaving a pontoon

2. As the bow line is let slip, the bow begins to swing out.

 

A yacht springing off a pontoon

3. She needs a little more help, so notice the helm is turned towards the pontoon (tiller away) to take advantage of the reverse water flow against the rudder.

 

A yacht motoring out of a tight berth by springing off

4. Now she can motor out of the tightest berth.

The bow spring

By using a bow spring the stern can be swung out, allowing you to reverse out into clear water.

Take a line from the bow, as far aft on the shore as practicable, at least past midships, and arrange it so that it can be slipped from on board.

With the engine in forward gear, slip all the lines apart from the bow spring and stern breast line.

When you are clear to go, slip the stern breast line and turn the helm towards the berth (tiller away).

Once the stern is out far enough, centre the helm and reverse gently out into clear water.

Make sure to allow time for the foredeck crew to recover the spring and ensure that it is fully aboard before engaging forward gear.

Again, a pause in neutral can reduce the risk of trapped fingers or a rope around the prop.

As the stern swings out, make sure the fender is still protecting the stem.

Note: This powerful springing-off method uses the thrust of the prop against the rudder and its effect can be varied by adjusting the helm angle.

By turning the helm away from the berth the yacht can be held in place using the bow spring alone.

Adjust the helm angle to keep her parallel to the berth, then when you are ready to go simply turn the helm towards the berth and the stern will spring out

Using a bow spring: step-by-step

A boat springing off a pontoon

1. Ready to go. The foredeck crew (Derek) stands ready to slip the spring, the helm is turned to port, away from the pontoon. The engine in my Vancouver 274 Kate is in forward gear, holding her in place.

 

a boat springing off a pontoon

2. As Dave turns the helm towards the pontoon the stern begins to swing out and Derek keeps an eye on the fenders.

 

A man at the tiller of a boat

3. Engine in forward gear, Dave turns the helm towards the pontoon to begin the manoeuvre.

 

Rope on a boat

4. Derek is controlling the end of the spring with a round turn so that he can release it quickly

 

A man on a yacht springing off a pontoon

5. Once the stern is far enough out Dave centres the helm, engages reverse gear and Derek slips the spring.

 

A boat springing off a pontoon in a marina

6. With the line clear she is free to go on her way

Springing on

When giving own-boat tuition, one of the most common worries I deal with is prop walking.  ‘My prop kicks to port so I can’t get into my starboard-to berth.’

Parking a yacht is not like parking a car.

What the engine won’t do, a spring will. It was the last line to be slipped as you departed.

When getting back into a berth, getting a spring ashore first can help you dock with professional precision and control.

In all the photographs here,  Kate is shown berthing starboard-to.

She has a right-hand prop, which means that when stopping her alongside with the engine alone the stern kicks to port.

When using a spring this is no longer a problem.

Coming alongside

Have the bow spring ready rigged as you approach the berth. If it’s a familiar spot you may already know how long it needs to be: ideally, it should be about two-thirds of your boat’s length.

Pass it outside everything and back to the crew, who should be standing ready by the shrouds.

Approach slowly on a line between 30° and 45° to the berth, aiming the stem at about the midpoint.

At about a boat-width from the quay, begin to turn parallel to bring the shrouds close to this point.

As the yacht draws alongside the crew can step ashore to make the spring fast.

A burst of reverse power may be helpful. It will kick the stern out if approaching on the ‘wrong’ side, but no matter.

Allow the yacht to take up the slack in the spring, turn the helm away from the berth, and gently drop the engine into gear.

Adjust the helm angle until she lies parallel to the berth.

If the yacht is being blown away from the berth it may be necessary to gently increase the revs until she moves sideways to be held against the berth between the spring and the rudder.

Note: I prefer to have a spliced eye or a ready-tied bowline in its shoreward end so the spring can be quickly dropped over the chosen cleat.

The length of the spring can then be adjusted by the crew aboard before being made fast. I do this with a round turn on a sheet winch, having the
spring led back to the cockpit from the bow.

However, experienced crew ashore may prefer to use a round turn on the cleat or bollard to gently stop the yacht and adjust her final position before making the line fast.

Clear communication is essential. The skipper must make sure the shore crew know which bollard or cleat he intends to use.

Crew must let the skipper know loud and clear when the spring is made fast.

Coming alongside: step-by-step

A boat approaching a pontoon in a marina

1. Approaching slowly at about 30° to the berth, Dave is aiming for the middle of where Kate will lie and Derek stands ready to put the spring ashore

 

A boat approaching a pontoon

2. Kate touches the pontoon and Derek is ready to step ashore with the spring.

 

a boat springing onto a pontoon

3. Derek drops the spring over the chosen cleat. Here a midships spring is being used instead of a bow spring.

 

A man on a boat

4. With the spring in place, Dave engages forward gear and turns the helm away from (tiller towards) the pontoon. Kate will now stay in place while Derek gets all the other lines on.

Strong wind berthing

In very strong winds off the berth, a conventional approach may be impossible.

The foredeck crew should first prepare a long double spring, reaching back about two-thirds of the length of the vessel.

Make both ends fast forward and feed the ends in through the fairlead from outboard before bringing the rest of the loop back inboard over the rail and gathering it into two equal coils.

Approach the berth directly into the wind, aiming the stem at the cleat chosen for the spring.

Once she is close enough the foredeck crew can throw the spring over the cleat by flinging his arms up and outwards.

As long as the loop is around the cleat the yacht can be allowed to fall back on the wind, taking in the slack.

Once she is settled, put the helm hard over in the direction that will be away from the quay once berthed.

If berthing starboard-to, turn the helm to port. Drop the engine into gear and she will begin to swing.

Keep the revs to the minimum required. If in doubt, ease off.

You need to make sure the stem is safely fendered as this is likely to make contact first.

Adjust the revs and helm angle to bring her alongside. As soon as she is near enough get the breast lines on, bow line first and then stern. I have used this strategy with great success into the teeth of Force 6 and above.

Note: Take it easy on the revs. If you get too enthusiastic with the throttle she may clout the quay.

If it doesn’t work the first time, just let her fall back and try again.

Strong wind berthing: step-by-step

a boat in a marina

1. If a strong wind is blowing directly off the berth, approach directly into the wind. The crew stands ready at the bow, the spring in two coils, one in each hand.

 

A boat getting close to a wooden pontoon

2. As Kate gets close to the pontoon, Derek prepares to throw.

 

A yacht in a marina

3. Throwing his arms up and outward, Derek releases the coils into a wide loop.

 

A man throwing a rope from a boat to a pontoon

4. Right on target. The spring falls in a wide loop around the cleat.

 

A boat springing on to a pontoon

5. With the spring around the cleat, Kate is allowed to fall back on the wind.

 

A boat mooring in a marina

6. Once the spring is holding her, Dave puts the helm hard over (for a starboard-to berth he will turn it to port), puts the engine into forward gear and lets the spring do its work.

 

A boat springing off a pontoon

7. As Kate makes contact with the pontoon, Derek checks that the fenders are doing their job.

Midships cleat

Running the spring from a amidships cleat can greatly increase control when coming alongside.

There is a tendency when the spring is led from right for’ard for the bow to be pulled hard towards the berth.

A midships spring allows the yacht to pivot around her centre, making it easier to keep her parallel with the berth.

Kate’s prop kicks to port in reverse, making it difficult to get onto her starboard to finger berth in Victoria Dock, Caernarfon.

She is also on the east side of the finger so the prevailing westerlies tend to push her away from her berth.

Getting her berthed under engine alone would be very difficult, if not impossible.

Prepare a midships spring. Take care not to make it too long or it won’t stop you before you clout the pontoon.

Have the crew standing at the shrouds, ready to put the spring onto the cleat at the outer end of the finger.

Approach the berth gently, giving the crew time to get ashore and place the spring.

Give her a nudge forward to take up the slack, and just before it comes tight turn the helm away from the berth.

Don’t worry about staying close to the pontoon, just keep the helm hard over and drop her into forward gear.

Adjust the helm angle to keep her parallel, and if necessary increase the revs.

Once the yacht is close alongside, lock the helm in position. I use a sail tie from the pushpit and put a quick clove hitch on the tiller.

There is then time, with the engine still in gear, to put all the other lines in place.

Note: For Kate’s home berth I have a spring ready-made up to length from nylon multiplait. The stretch stops her gently and a spliced eye in each end makes it easy and quick to place.

Many yachts, including Kate‘s, don’t have a midships cleat. I use a Barton sliding cleat.

This neat fitting slips onto the genoa track. It was very easy to fit, and I can adjust its position to get the best effect.

Using a midships cleat: step-by-step

a fender on a yacht

1 The Barton sliding cleat allows me to use a midships spring.

 

A boat in a marina

2. With the spring in his hand, Derek is ready to step onto the finger.

 

Fenders on the side of a boat preparing for springing off a pontoon

3. The spring is on, but Kate has already drifted off the finger.

 

A boat with fenders

4. Dave soon brings Kate under control and neatly alongside her finger berth.


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